Swimming with a group of Chilean devil rays (Mobula tarapacana) at Princess Alice Bank in the Azores was an unforgettable experience. These large pelagic rays are remarkably agile in the open ocean, and even though I did my best to keep up, they quickly descended into the blue beyond reach. It takes time to get to Princess Alice, around 70 km offshore from Pico Island, but the opportunity to observe these animals in their natural environment makes the effort entirely worthwhile.

Freediving offers a unique way to engage with marine wildlife, distinctly different from scuba. Without the sound of bubbles or the bulk of equipment, interactions often feel more natural and less intrusive. Many species, including mobulas, appear noticeably less cautious around freedivers, allowing for closer and more prolonged observations. The simplicity and quiet of breath-hold diving create ideal conditions for encounters that are both scientifically valuable and personally memorable.

The Azores hold particular significance for me, especially Pico Island. In 2014, I visited the island through the Rolex Scholarship, which gave me the chance to explore the region’s marine biodiversity and connect with the team at CW Azores. It was during one of those dives that I met Dan, now my husband, on a dive boat off the coast of Pico. That visit, originally meant as a brief stop, became a defining moment in both my personal and professional life.

Returning to Princess Alice with Dan this time felt like closing a loop. I’m grateful to CW Azores for their ongoing commitment to conservation and for welcoming me all those years ago. And of course, thanks to Dan, not just for capturing the moment, but for continuing to share these experiences with me.